I think it was an optional install for a cabinet interlock switch preventing running the AH while the cabinet door is unistalledĭoes this make sense? Is the replacement a "simple" wire to wire swap with the 10 or so wires installed? Kind of like changing the distributor cap on an old car, label the leads, label the terminals take out the old, put in the new (in exactly the same spot) then move on with your life? something else that was not exactly clear from the schematic. the thing I think is the relay (9400-13Q101) There were several little black boxes and the schematic was a little tricky to read: At least that is what I read off the label of the existing relay. Thanks again.Īlright, opened up the airhandler and it looks like my relay is aĩ400-13Q101. Like I said, I have 2 condensing units, 3 tstats (would need 2 zone controlling "master" t-stats) and a "subordinate" tstat that goes into the zone 2 on my zone control board. I have heard that this could save me a lot of money on my energy bills. If I do need a new t-stat could you recommend a low-cost programmable that meets my requirements? I would like to be able to turn the heat down automatically at night and while everyone is out for the day. So is 6.87V enough to energize the relays? Is this indicative of a T-Stat short or something? In any case, I am hoping it is a bad T-Stat as I was planning on replacing my digital T-stat with a new programmable t-stat. I am convinced that those are accurate voltages as I am using a brand new, high quality clamp on ammeter/multimeter. I checked, and double checked and triple checked my test connection points and the connectivity. On the left side I got 24V (actually 28.6V).
On the demand (right) side, I got 7 volts (actually 6.87V). That said, I have my AC results now and they are not quite what I expected. Your expertise is empowering me to save some money, but more importantly understand the systems operating in my house. I am pretty hand and engineering savvy, I am just not familiar with the systems. Thanks in advance for your time and consideration,įirst I want to say thank you so much for the time so far.
I have posted a link to my current t-stats below. If any knowlegible folks could provide me some insight into my problems and recommend some good, inexpensive, programmable t-stats I would really appreciate it. The t-stats are older, so I was thinking about replacing them with programmable t-stats because even if they don't fix the problem they should save me money over the winter. Tonight I could not get it to come on at all.īoth problems involve the "upstairs" systems and the only common link I can think of is the t-stat, although there are 2 independent t-stats that should operate this air handler and condensing unit. Sometimes I have to cycle the switch several times to get the condensing unit to come on. Problem 2: The condesing unit for the upstairs does not always turn on automatically or by operating the switch regardless of interior temperature. In order to turn it off I have to open the breaker.
Problem 1: The attic airhandler NEVER shuts off. All t-stats/heat zones run off the same oil boiler in the basement. The downstairs t-stat operates an airhandler in the basement and a separate condensing unit outside. The upstairs t-stats operate an airhandler in the attic and a condensing unit outside. I have a 3 heatzones 2 t-stats upstairs, 1 t-stat downstairs. Here is a quick rundown of my HVAC system. I think they may be through the T-stat, but then again, I am no expert. I have a couple of HVAC issues and I am not sure if they are related.